Macramé for Beginners: Cord, Knots and Easy First Projects
Macramé is a way of making textiles by knotting cord rather than knitting or weaving it. To start, choose a 3–5 mm cotton cord (3-ply or braided are the most forgiving), learn the lark's head, square, half hitch and double half hitch knots, and cut each cord roughly four times the finished length, or about eight times if it is folded in half, plus extra for the fringe. A keyring, a small wall hanging or a plant hanger makes a good first project.
This guide explains cord types and thicknesses, how much cord to cut, the six knots that cover most beginner patterns, three first projects and the few tools you need.
Macramé cord types
Most macramé cord is cotton, including recycled cotton, though jute, hemp, bamboo blends and synthetic cords are also used. The construction matters as much as the fibre.
| Cord type | How it is made | Feel and fringe | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single twist (single strand) | Many fibres twisted in one direction | Very soft; brushes out into a fluffy fringe but untwists easily | Wall hangings, feathers and leaves, fringe-heavy designs |
| 3-ply twisted rope | Three strands twisted together | Firm, defined knots; unravels into a wavy fringe | Plant hangers, wall hangings, general projects |
| Braided cord | Fibres braided together, often around a core | Sturdy and smooth; does not unravel for a fringe | Practice pieces, plant hangers, items that need strength |
The UK craft magazine Gathered's guide to macramé cords suggests braided cord or 3-ply rope for beginners, with single twist best for experienced makers or small projects. Cotton is soft on the hands and easy to undo; if a piece will sit somewhere damp, bear in mind that natural fibres can mark or weaken over time. Browse macramé cord by thickness and fibre.
Which thickness to choose
| Diameter | Typical uses |
|---|---|
| 1–2 mm | Bracelets, jewellery, fine detail, small keyrings |
| 3–5 mm | Plant hangers, wall hangings, keyrings, coasters; 4 mm is a popular all-rounder |
| 5 mm and thicker | Large wall pieces, rugs, curtains and bold statement work |
Thicker cord makes each knot bigger, so a pattern worked in 5 mm cord will come out larger, and use more length, than the same pattern in 3 mm. If a pattern states a diameter, use it, or swatch first.
How much cord to cut
A widely used rule of thumb is to cut each working cord about four times the finished length of the piece. Because most projects start by folding each cord in half over a dowel or ring with a lark's head knot, that becomes about eight times the finished length for every cord you cut. Then add extra for the fringe and for tying off.
Example: for a wall hanging 60 cm long, excluding fringe, with folded cords: 60 cm x 8 = 480 cm per cord, plus your fringe length and a little spare.
Treat this as a starting point, not a formula. You will need more if you use:
- dense, repeated knots such as long rows of square knots or spirals
- thicker cord, which uses more length per knot
- tight tension
You may need less for open designs with lots of space between knots. Filler cords that run through the centre of square knots use far less than the working cords that tie around them. When in doubt, cut generously, because joining a new length invisibly is harder than trimming. For a reliable figure, tie 10 cm of your main knot with a measured length of cord and see how much was used.
Six essential knots
| Knot | What it does | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| Lark's head | Mounts a folded cord onto a dowel, ring or another cord | Starting almost every project |
| Square knot | Two half knots tied in opposite directions to make a flat knot | Flat panels, nets, plant hanger arms |
| Half knot spiral | The same half knot repeated, which twists into a spiral | Decorative twisted lengths |
| Half hitch | One cord looped around another | Spirals of hitches, building block for other knots |
| Double half hitch | Two half hitches tied side by side over a holding cord | Horizontal, diagonal and curved lines |
| Gathering (wrapping) knot | A cord wrapped around a bundle and locked in place | Tops and bottoms of plant hangers, tassels |
Tips for each knot
- Lark's head: fold the cord, pass the loop over the dowel, pull the ends through it. A reverse lark's head shows a horizontal bar on the front instead of the back.
- Square knot: work with four cords: two outer working cords tie around two central fillers. It is also called the flat knot, and a single half of it is a half knot.
- Spiral: keep starting each half knot from the same side and let the work rotate naturally.
- Double half hitch: hold the holding cord taut at the angle you want the line to run; that angle sets the direction.
- Gathering knot: lay a loop along the bundle, wrap the working end tightly downwards over it, thread the end through the loop and pull the top end to draw it under the wraps.
Three first projects
Keyring
A keyring uses a few short cords mounted on a split ring with lark's heads, then a short run of square knots or a spiral and a fringe. It is quick, cheap and good practice for even tension. Add a few large-hole beads if you like.
Small wall hanging
Mount cords on a wooden dowel, tie a row of double half hitches to set a straight line, then a few rows of alternating square knots and a diagonal of double half hitches. Finish with a trimmed fringe, brushed out if you used single twist cord.
Plant hanger
Start with a gathering knot below a wooden or metal ring, divide the cords into groups of four, tie square knots or spirals down each arm, alternate the groups to make the basket that holds the pot, and finish with a second gathering knot. A watered pot is heavy, so fix the ceiling hook securely, ideally into a joist, and check the cord for wear from time to time.
Tools you need
- Cord in your chosen thickness
- Sharp craft scissors for clean cut ends
- A tape measure
- A dowel, ring or stick to mount onto
- Somewhere to hang the work at chest height: a clothes rail, a hook or a coat hanger
- Masking tape or clips to hold cords and labels for groups
- Optional: a fine comb for brushing fringes, and a macramé board for small pieces
More supplies are grouped under macramé and knotting.
Safety with cords and small parts
Long hanging cords and loops can be a strangulation risk for babies and young children. RoSPA's blind cord safety advice is to keep cords and chains out of children's reach, for example with cleats fixed at least 1.5 metres from the floor, and to position cots and beds away from them; the same thinking applies to macramé with long dangling ends. Beads and small findings are a choking hazard for under-threes; see our kids' craft safety guide before crafting with children.
Beginner summary
- Start with 3–5 mm braided or 3-ply cotton cord
- Cut cords about 4 x the finished length, or 8 x if folded, plus fringe
- Learn lark's head, square knot and double half hitch first
- Practise on a keyring before a wall hanging or plant hanger
- Hang your work at chest height and keep tension even
- Keep long cords and beads away from young children
Frequently asked questions
What size macramé cord is best for beginners?
A 3–5 mm cord is easiest to learn with, and 4 mm is a popular all-rounder. Braided cord or 3-ply rope is more forgiving than single twist.
How much macramé cord do I need?
A common rule of thumb is about four times the finished length per working cord, or about eight times if the cord is folded in half, plus fringe. Dense knots and thicker cord need more.
What is the difference between single twist and 3-ply cord?
Single twist is many fibres twisted in one direction, very soft and good for fringes but quick to untwist. 3-ply is three strands twisted together, firmer and more defined.
What knots do I need to learn first?
The lark's head, square knot and double half hitch cover most beginner patterns. Add the half knot spiral and gathering knot for plant hangers.
What is a good first macramé project?
A keyring is quick practice for tension, and a small wall hanging or plant hanger uses only a few knots repeated.