Candle Making for Beginners: A UK Guide to Container Candles
To make a container candle at home you melt a container wax such as soy, rapeseed, paraffin or a blend, add fragrance at the rate the wax supplier recommends (container soy and rapeseed waxes commonly list a maximum of around 10%, and some allow up to 12%), and pour it into a heat-resistant jar with a correctly sized wick fixed to the base. After pouring, leave it to set and cure, then burn-test it before you light it in a living room or give it away. The two things that make or break a first candle are the wick size and careful temperature control.
What you need to start
- Container wax (sold as flakes or pellets) from the candle wax range
- Pre-tabbed wicks in a few sizes, plus wick stickers and a centring bar or clothes peg
- Heat-resistant containers made for candles, such as thick glass jars or tins
- Candle fragrance oil intended for candle use, and dye if you want colour
- A pouring jug, a pan for a double boiler (bain-marie), a digital thermometer and kitchen scales
- Kitchen roll, a heatproof mat and a lid to smother a fire
Keep candle equipment separate from food pans and utensils. Starter kits in our candle making category bundle many of these together.
Wax types compared
Each wax behaves differently, so always read the technical data sheet that comes with it.
| Wax | Made from | Typical traits | Beginner notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Soy | Soya bean oil | Soft, creamy finish, low melt point, slow and even burn | Popular for jars; can show frosting (white crystal patches), which is cosmetic |
| Rapeseed | Rapeseed (canola) oil | Soft container wax, often grown and processed in Europe | Behaves much like soy; pour temperatures can be relatively low |
| Paraffin | Petroleum refining | Good scent throw, smooth finish, wide range of grades | Choose a container grade; pillar grades are harder |
| Beeswax | Honeycomb | Hard, higher melt point, natural honey scent | Usually needs a larger wick; often blended with a softer wax for jars |
| Blends | Mixtures of the above | Designed to balance finish, adhesion and scent throw | Follow the blend's own data sheet |
If you are new to the craft, a single soy wax or rapeseed container wax is the easiest starting point because there is lots of shared guidance for it.
Wick sizing basics
The wick has to suit the wax, the fragrance and, above all, the inside diameter of the container. Wick makers publish sizing charts by container diameter, but these are starting points only.
- Too small: the candle tunnels down the middle, leaves wax on the walls and the flame may drown.
- Too large: a tall, flickering flame, soot, mushrooming on the wick and a container that gets too hot.
- About right: a steady flame and a melt pool that reaches, or nearly reaches, the edge of the jar within a few hours of burning.
Measure the container's inside diameter in millimetres, choose the size the chart suggests, and make a second candle one size up and one down so you can compare them in a burn test.
Fragrance load, temperatures and pouring
Fragrance load
Fragrance load is the amount of fragrance oil as a percentage of the wax, measured by weight. Wax suppliers state a maximum, commonly around 10% for container soy and rapeseed waxes, though some data sheets allow up to 12% and many makers use less. Going over the limit can make oil seep from the candle and burn poorly. At 8%, 200 g of wax takes 16 g of fragrance oil. Some makers calculate the percentage of the total candle weight instead, so check which method your supplier uses.
Temperatures
Melt the wax gently in a double boiler and watch it with a thermometer. Each wax has its own recommended temperature for adding fragrance and for pouring, and these vary between products: many soy and rapeseed container waxes are poured somewhere around 50–65 °C, and some data sheets advise not heating the wax above about 85 °C. Use the figures from your wax's data sheet and never heat wax beyond the maximum it states. Stir the fragrance in gently for a minute or two.
Pouring
- Fix the wick to the centre of a clean, room-temperature (or slightly warmed) container.
- Pour slowly to reduce air bubbles, leaving a little space at the top.
- Hold the wick upright with a centring bar while it sets.
- Let it cool slowly away from draughts; fast cooling causes sink holes and cracks.
Fragrance and dyes are sold specifically for candles in our candle and soap fragrances range; read each oil's safety data sheet before use.
Curing and burn testing
Most container candles benefit from curing, which means leaving them covered at room temperature so the wax and fragrance settle. Suppliers commonly suggest anything from a couple of days to around two weeks for soy and rapeseed waxes, so follow your wax's guidance.
To burn-test, trim the wick to about 5 mm, light the candle on a heatproof surface, stay with it and note:
- Flame height and whether it smokes or flickers
- How long the melt pool takes to reach the edge
- Whether the glass becomes too hot to touch safely
- How the candle behaves near the bottom of the container
Fire safety at home
The London Fire Brigade's candle safety advice is to never leave candles unattended, keep them in heat-resistant holders on a stable surface, keep them away from curtains, furniture and anything that can catch fire, keep them out of reach of children and pets, and put them out when you leave the room.
- Never heat wax directly on a hob or in a microwave unless the wax maker says so; use a double boiler and do not leave it.
- Never throw water on burning wax. Turn off the heat and, only if it is safe, smother the pan with a lid or fire blanket. If the fire is not out straight away, get out, stay out and call 999.
- Wear an apron and keep children and pets out of the room while melting and pouring.
Our kids' craft safety guide has more on keeping hot crafts away from young children.
If you want to sell candles in the UK
Selling candles means taking on legal duties. This is a general overview, not legal advice; check the official guidance and talk to your local Trading Standards service or a professional adviser.
- Product safety: the General Product Safety Regulations 2005 guidance for Great Britain explains that producers must place only safe products on the market and give consumers the information they need to assess risks, such as safety warnings. These still apply in Great Britain (Northern Ireland follows EU Regulation 2023/988), and reforms have been consulted on, so check GOV.UK for updates.
- CLP labelling: in Great Britain the classification, labelling and packaging of chemicals is regulated under GB CLP, overseen by the HSE. Fragranced candles are treated as mixtures, and some fragrance ingredients can trigger warning statements or pictograms. HSENI's guidance on candles and CLP (written for Northern Ireland, where EU CLP applies) shows how a sensitising ingredient at 0.1% or more can require a "Contains [name]. May produce an allergic reaction." statement.
- Ask your fragrance supplier for the safety data sheet and any CLP information for each oil at the percentage you use.
For record keeping, tax and registering as self-employed, see our guide to selling handmade crafts in the UK.
Quick checklist
- Read the wax data sheet for fragrance load, add and pour temperatures
- Measure the container's inside diameter and test at least two wick sizes
- Weigh wax and fragrance; record every batch
- Cure as the supplier suggests, then burn-test while supervising
- Never leave melting wax or a burning candle unattended
- Selling? Check your duties under the General Product Safety Regulations 2005 and GB CLP, and label accordingly
Frequently asked questions
What is the easiest wax for a beginner candle maker?
A single container wax such as soy or rapeseed is usually the easiest start, because it melts at a low temperature and plenty of guidance exists for it. Always follow the technical data sheet that comes with your wax.
How much fragrance oil should I add to candle wax?
Stay within the maximum fragrance load stated by your wax supplier, commonly around 10% by weight for container soy and rapeseed waxes (some allow up to 12%). For example, 200 g of wax at 8% takes 16 g of fragrance oil.
How do I know if my candle wick is the right size?
Burn-test it while supervising: a well-sized wick gives a steady flame and a melt pool that reaches, or nearly reaches, the edge of the container within a few hours. Tunnelling suggests the wick is too small, while soot and a tall flame suggest it is too large.
How long should homemade candles cure?
It depends on the wax. Suppliers commonly suggest anything from a couple of days to around two weeks for soy and rapeseed waxes, kept covered at room temperature.
Do I need special labels to sell candles in the UK?
Fragranced candles are treated as chemical mixtures under GB CLP, so some fragrance ingredients can trigger warning statements or pictograms, and the General Product Safety Regulations also apply. Check the HSE and GOV.UK guidance, your fragrance supplier's safety data sheets, and seek professional advice if unsure.