Cross Stitch for Beginners: Aida Counts, Strands, Needles and Charts
To start cross stitch you need 14-count aida, a skein or two of six-strand stranded cotton, a size 24 tapestry needle, a small embroidery hoop and a chart. Stitch with two strands on 14-count aida and work each cross in the same direction for a neat finish. This guide explains aida counts, strands, needle sizes, hoops and how to read a chart.
What you need to start
- Aida fabric: an evenly woven cotton with clear holes in a grid, made for counted cross stitch.
- Stranded cotton: embroidery thread made of six fine strands you separate before stitching. DMC's six-strand cotton, for instance, is sold in 8 m skeins of six strands that separate easily.
- Tapestry needles: blunt-tipped needles with a large eye.
- An embroidery hoop about 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 inches) across.
- Small sharp embroidery scissors, a chart and a pencil or highlighter.
A kit is a good first project because it includes everything already matched. You will find aida, threads, hoops and kits in our Embroidery & Cross Stitch department.
Aida counts explained
The count is the number of squares (and therefore cross stitches) per inch of fabric. A higher count means smaller squares, smaller stitches and a smaller finished design. The Embroiderers' Guild of America suggests 14-count aida for beginners because the grid is easy to see.
| Aida count | Stitches per inch | Approx. stitches per cm | Typical strands | Tapestry needle | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 11-count | 11 | 4.3 | 3 | 22 | Large squares; good for children and anyone who finds small grids tiring |
| 14-count | 14 | 5.5 | 2 | 24 | The usual starting fabric and the most common count in kits |
| 16-count | 16 | 6.3 | 2 | 24 or 26 | A finer look once you are comfortable counting |
| 18-count | 18 | 7.1 | 1 or 2 | 26 or 28 | Small, detailed stitches; good light helps |
Stitches per centimetre are calculated by dividing the count by 2.54. Strand numbers are a starting point: more strands give fuller coverage, fewer give a lighter look, so test a few stitches on a spare corner. Outlines in backstitch are usually worked with one strand.
Working out your fabric size
Divide the design's width and height in stitches by the fabric count to get inches, then multiply by 2.54 for centimetres. A design 140 stitches wide on 14-count aida is 10 inches (25.4 cm) wide. Add at least 5 to 8 cm (2 to 3 inches) of spare fabric on every side for the hoop and for framing.
Stranded cotton and strands
Cut a length of about 45 cm (18 inches); longer threads tangle and wear thin. To separate strands, hold the cut end, pull a single strand straight up and out, and let the rest bunch and then relax. Pull out the second strand the same way and lay the two back together. Separating and recombining like this helps the stitches lie flat.
Charts identify each colour by a thread number, so make a note of the brand the chart uses. If you swap brands, use a conversion chart and check the shades side by side in daylight.
Tapestry needle sizes
Tapestry needles are numbered so that the higher the number, the finer the needle. They are blunt so they slip through the holes in aida without splitting the fabric, and the larger eye makes stranded cotton easier to thread. World of Cross Stitching recommends size 22 for 11-count, 24 for 14-count, 26 for 16-count and 28 for 18-count aida, although many stitchers happily use a size 24 on 16-count. The needle should pass through a hole without forcing it wider.
Keep needles in a needle minder or case, and keep them and scissors out of reach of young children. Our kids' craft safety guide has more on stitching with children.
Using a hoop
- Loosen the screw and separate the two rings.
- Lay the fabric over the inner ring with the area you will stitch in the middle.
- Press the outer ring down over it and tighten the screw until the fabric is taut, but not stretched out of square.
- Take the fabric out of the hoop at the end of each session so the ring does not leave a crease.
Some stitchers work small designs in the hand without a hoop. Try both; a hoop usually helps beginners keep the tension even.
How to read a cross stitch chart
A chart is a grid in which each square represents one cross stitch on the aida. A symbol or colour in a square tells you which thread to use, and the key lists the thread numbers and how many strands each needs.
- Find the centre. Charts usually mark it with arrows on the edges. Fold your fabric in half both ways to find its centre, and start stitching there so the design sits in the middle.
- Count in tens. Heavier grid lines every 10 squares make counting easier.
- Mark as you go. Highlight or pencil off stitches on a copy of the chart so you never lose your place.
- Read the extras. Straight lines on the chart are backstitch; half squares or small symbols are fractional stitches.
Making the stitches
Bring the needle up at the bottom left of a square and down at the top right to make a half stitch, then up at the bottom right and down at the top left to complete the cross. Many people work a row of half stitches first, then come back along the row to cross them. Keep the top stitch going the same way every time; as the EGA notes, a consistent direction gives a much neater finish. Avoid knots, which make lumps under framed work: start by leaving a short tail at the back and catching it under your first few stitches, then finish by running the thread under several stitches on the back.
Beginner checklist
- 14-count aida with 5 to 8 cm spare on every side
- Stranded cotton in the chart's shades; 2 strands for cross stitch, 1 for backstitch
- Size 24 tapestry needle (22 for 11-count, 26 to 28 for 18-count)
- 10 to 15 cm hoop, small scissors and a needle case
- Start at the centre, mark off the chart and keep every top stitch the same way
When your first piece is done, our Craft Storage department has boxes and organisers to keep threads sorted by number.
Frequently asked questions
What aida count is best for a first cross stitch project?
14-count aida is the usual starting point because its squares are easy to see and count. 11-count is larger again and can suit children or anyone who finds small grids tiring.
How many strands of thread do I use on 14-count aida?
Use two strands of six-strand stranded cotton for cross stitches on 14-count aida. Backstitch outlines are usually worked with one strand.
What size needle do I need for cross stitch?
Use a blunt tapestry needle: size 24 for 14-count aida, size 22 for 11-count and size 26 or 28 for 18-count. The higher the number, the finer the needle.
Do I need a hoop for cross stitch?
A hoop is not essential, but it keeps the fabric taut and helps beginners keep stitches even. Remove the fabric from the hoop between sessions to avoid creases.
How do I work out how much aida fabric I need?
Divide the design's stitch count by the fabric count to get inches, multiply by 2.54 for centimetres, then add at least 5 to 8 cm on every side for the hoop and framing.