Choosing Fabric for Sewing: Woven vs Knit, GSM and Pre-Washing
For a first sewing project, choose a stable, medium-weight woven cotton: it cuts accurately, does not stretch out of shape, presses crisply and forgives uneven stitching. Check the fibre, whether the fabric is woven or knitted, its weight in grams per square metre (gsm) and its width, then pre-wash it the way you will wash the finished item.
This guide explains those choices in plain terms, with tables you can use when reading a fabric listing.
Woven or knit: the first thing to know
Every fabric is made in one of two main ways, and it changes how you cut, sew and finish it.
| Woven | Knit | |
|---|---|---|
| How it is made | Two sets of threads crossing at right angles | One yarn formed into interlocking loops |
| Stretch | Little, except on the diagonal (bias) | Stretches, usually most across the width |
| Cut edges | Fray, so need finishing | Usually do not fray |
| Examples | Quilting cotton, poplin, linen, denim, canvas | Jersey, ribbing, sweatshirt fleece, interlock |
| Machine needle | Universal | Jersey (ball point) or stretch |
| Beginner-friendly? | Yes, especially cotton | Once you are confident with a machine |
Needle choice matters with knits. Schmetz advises jersey needles for knits and stretch needles for fabrics containing elastane, as both are designed to help prevent skipped stitches.
Common fabrics for beginners
Cotton
Quilting cotton and poplin are the classic starting points: firm, easy to press, and printed in endless designs. Lighter lawn and voile suit blouses and summer dresses but are slightly more slippery. Cotton canvas and drill are sturdy for bags and cushions.
Linen
Linen is cool to wear, softens with washing and has a natural texture. It creases readily and many linens fray quickly, so finish seams soon after cutting. Linen-cotton blends crease a little less and are a good middle ground.
Jersey
Jersey is a knit, often cotton with a little elastane, used for T-shirts, leggings and loungewear. Its curling edges and stretch make it harder for a first project. When you try it, use a jersey needle and a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch.
Blends
Many fabrics mix fibres, for example polyester-cotton or cotton with a small percentage of elastane. Read the fibre content on the listing: polyester tends to reduce creasing, while elastane adds stretch and recovery. Blends can react differently to heat, so start with a cooler iron and test on a scrap.
Fabrics to leave until later
Satin, chiffon, velvet, sequinned fabrics and very lightweight viscose slip, shift or mark easily. They are rewarding once you have the basics.
Fabric weight (gsm) explained
GSM means grams per square metre: the higher the number, the heavier and usually thicker the cloth. Some listings use ounces per square yard instead; 1 oz per square yard is about 33.9 gsm.
| Approximate weight | Feel | Typical fabrics | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Under about 110 gsm | Light, often sheer | Voile, chiffon, fine lawn | Blouses, linings, curtains that filter light |
| About 110–150 gsm | Light to medium | Lawn, many quilting cottons, viscose | Dresses, shirts, patchwork |
| About 150–220 gsm | Medium | Linen, cotton jersey, craft cotton | Tops, trousers, aprons |
| About 220–320 gsm | Medium to heavy | Heavier linen, lighter denim, drill | Jackets, cushion covers, bags |
| Over about 320 gsm | Heavy | Denim, canvas, heavy twill | Bags, workwear, upholstery-style projects |
These bands are a rough guide; sellers describe weights slightly differently, so compare the gsm figure itself where it is given. Also check the width: patterns give fabric requirements for specific widths, and a narrower fabric means buying more length.
Pre-washing and shrinkage
Natural fibres, cotton especially, can shrink the first time they are washed and dried. Cotton Incorporated's technical guide to cotton shrinkage notes that woven fabrics are much more stable than knits, and that drying itself causes shrinkage. In its tests on finished cotton single jersey, residual shrinkage still measured between 3.5% and 7.3% in length or width, depending on how the fabric was finished.
A practical routine:
- Read the care information on the listing or bolt end.
- Neaten the cut ends with a zigzag stitch or pinking to limit fraying.
- Wash and dry the fabric exactly as you plan to launder the finished item. If you will tumble dry the garment, tumble dry the fabric.
- Wash strong colours, especially reds and dark blues, separately the first time.
- Press before cutting, following the iron's instructions and safety advice.
Some quilters choose not to pre-wash small pre-cuts such as fat quarters because they can fray and distort in the wash. Whichever you choose, be consistent within one quilt, and always pre-wash fabric that will become clothing.
Grain, selvedge and bias
On a woven fabric:
- Selvedge – the firm, finished edges along each side of the length, which do not fray.
- Lengthwise grain (warp) – threads parallel to the selvedge; the most stable direction.
- Crosswise grain (weft) – threads running from selvedge to selvedge, with a little more give.
- Bias – the 45-degree diagonal, which has the most stretch and drape. Bias binding is cut this way to curve smoothly.
Pattern pieces carry a grainline arrow. Place it parallel to the selvedge by measuring from each end of the arrow to the selvedge; the two measurements should match. Pieces cut off grain can twist after washing. On knits, line the arrow up with the vertical ribs (wales).
Nap and one-way designs
Napped fabrics such as velvet, needlecord, corduroy and fleece have a pile that looks lighter or darker depending on its direction. Prints with a one-way design, such as animals or houses that must stand upright, behave the same way. For both, use a “with nap” layout: cut every piece facing the same direction. This usually needs more fabric than a standard layout, so check the pattern's with-nap quantity.
Choosing fabric: a quick summary
- First project: medium-weight woven cotton, roughly 110–220 gsm.
- Check fibre, woven or knit, gsm, width and care instructions.
- Use a universal needle for wovens, jersey or stretch for knits.
- Pre-wash and dry as you will the finished item, then press.
- Line grainline arrows up with the selvedge.
- Use a with-nap layout for pile fabrics and one-way prints.
Browse cottons, fat quarters and wadding in our fabric and quilting department, with thread and notions in sewing. For tools, see our beginner sewing kit checklist, and if patchwork appeals, read quilting for beginners.
Frequently asked questions
What fabric is easiest for beginners to sew?
A stable, medium-weight woven cotton such as quilting cotton or poplin. It cuts accurately, presses crisply and does not stretch while you sew.
What is the difference between woven and knit fabric?
Woven fabric is made from threads crossing at right angles and has little stretch except on the bias. Knit fabric is made from interlocking loops, stretches and usually does not fray.
What does gsm mean for fabric?
GSM is grams per square metre, a measure of fabric weight. Higher numbers mean heavier cloth; 1 oz per square yard is about 33.9 gsm.
Should I pre-wash fabric before sewing?
For clothing and anything you will launder, yes. Wash and dry the fabric the way you will wash the finished item, because cotton can shrink, particularly when tumble dried.
What does 'with nap' mean on a sewing pattern?
It means cutting all pattern pieces facing the same direction. Use it for pile fabrics like velvet and corduroy and for one-way prints, and allow extra fabric.